FAQ

Not as a main trade. We build invisible laser-cinema systems: a laser TV, an ALR screen and a motorized cabinet designed as one piece of furniture. The host can be Hisense, AWOL, Samsung, NexiGo and other ultra-short-throw sets. Selling a lonely box is not the work.

A long-throw projector wants distance; the living room fills with a stand and a hanging sheet. A flat TV stops around 85 inches and never leaves the wall. An invisible cinema throws 100 inches and more from a cabinet, then drops the screen and hides the set so the room is furniture again.

Yes. Cabinets are built for about 99% of ultra-short-throw sets; screens use CBSP optics for light from below. Send the model, the size you want and a living-room photo. We check throw ratio and cabinet depth before we draw. You do not have to replace a set that already works.

A floor you can build into, and a wall you want left clean: floor-rising. A new ceiling cavity: recessed. A rental, or a room you will not open: a motorized drop-down. The guides set them side by side; the Fit Finder or a survey will do the same in your room.

Ultra-short throw needs an ALR screen — not a plain white sheet. CBSP keeps ceiling and side light out of the picture; sport and news in daylight are fine. A south-facing wall of glass wants a brighter host and a deeper screen material.

A dedicated theater can go dark, and it will look better. Living-room plans are drawn so you can watch without sealing the windows: ALR screen and brightness, not a life lived on cinema duty.

An integrated cabinet and a floor-rising screen are mostly placement, leveling and cable. A ceiling screen needs a prepared soffit. In Beijing we can survey the room. We install it as furniture, not as a building site.

Drawers and screens have travel control and an obstacle-reverse logic; day-to-day sound is appliance-quiet. Still keep the remote away from small hands, and tell us if there are young children when we write the plan.

Yes. The usual scene is one touch: lights down, screen up, cabinet open, host on. Sound can be a soundbar, bass behind an acoustically transparent door, or a separate theater rack. The protocol follows the gateway on site.

Cabinet length, screen size, host, veneer and whether install is included move the number too far for a single sticker. A dollar price would turn this brand site into a cross-border shop. This site is for plans and demos. Price on request.

Yes. The factory and showroom sit in the south of the east Chaobaihe Industrial Park, Tongzhou. Weekdays 9:00–18:00. Please book by phone or email so you do not land on a line change.

We can draw remotely and ship. Install can be a local crew or a visit we arrange. The host follows its maker’s warranty; cabinet and screen follow what we write in the NIKOHOME plan. We do not put a vague number of years on a webpage.

Yes, but they stay off the main nav. The living-room scene page mentions them: the cinema is the system; sofa and fireplace cabinets are the same life, in supporting roles.

julycode.net is an overseas English storefront, not this site. The Chinese brand and the company behind the service is Beijing Niko Home International Trade Co., Ltd., on nikohome.com. The two sites are separate. Do not treat an overseas checkout as the domestic path.

Higher is not automatically better. Lenticular / CBSP screens for ultra-short throw often sit at 0.6–0.8: a little less peak brightness, more stable blacks and a wider sofa. Figures near 1.2–1.6 are usually Fresnel — brighter dead-ahead, softer off to the side. Read the room’s light and how wide the seating is before you chase a number. See the gain guide.

In shops they are often the same family: a screen for ultra-short throw, light from below, mainly rejecting ceiling fixtures. CLR stresses ceiling-light rejection; UST ALR stresses ultra-short-throw ambient rejection. Products still differ in structure, gain and viewing angle — the letters are not a spec. NIKOHOME living-room plans use CBSP UST ALR. We do not put a long-throw ALR on a UST host.

Measure sofa-to-wall and the wall’s width first. 100 inches is calmer in most closed living rooms. 120 wants a wide enough wall and enough seating distance, or the edges start to pull the eye. 130 and up is for rooms with height and depth to spare. Cabinet length must follow the screen; do not buy the cabinet first and hope.

Usually no. Send the model. We check throw ratio, light-entry height and heat, then set cabinet depth and screen. We only talk about a new host when the old one is clearly too dim, or the throw will not meet the cabinet.

A floor you can build into, and a wall you want left clean: floor-rising. A new soffit, and a floor you will not give up: ceiling-recessed. A rental, or a box on the wall: drop-down. If you are not sure, use Find my setup — four questions, then a direction.